When we preview new additions for the shelves, Pinot Grigio is always the most closely examined item in any tasting lineup. There’s an ocean of the stuff made, and the quality swings from terrible to wonderful. I’m always thrilled to find a Pinot Grigio that’s well-made and moderately priced.

 

There’s no getting around the fact that some wines are more about image and marketing than what’s in the bottle — Pinot Grigio is the poster child for this practice. The result? Pinot Grigio has identity issues. On the one hand, there’s flashy-packaged, cheap, supermarket plonk that disappoints in every way except price. On the opposite end, you have the famous pricey properties that put all of their energy into marketing and none into the bottle — often purchasing wine from their less expensive neighbors. Like many things, what’s in the middle is sometimes the best.