Some of the most exciting Tuesday Night wines in the shop right now are coming from Portugal.
I understand that may sound a little crazy coming from a Francophile like me; however, week after week, it’s been the same thing: these best buys from Portugal are flying off the shelf, and I can hardly keep them in stock.
Portugal is having a real moment in the wine world, and for good reason. It’s not a trendy, flash-in-the-pan kind of moment. It’s more like the rest of the wine world is finally catching up to what adventurous wine lovers, savvy somms, and independent bottle shops have been on to for a while.
Portuguese wines are distinctive, the prices make a lot of sense in these interesting times, and the perceived quality is always higher than the modest price tag suggests. This week, we’re featuring four more super-friendly-priced Portuguese bottles that show exactly why this country deserves a regular spot on your wine rack.
So why Portugal, and why should you care?
A big part of the answer is value. Comparable bottles from better-known parts of the wine world can set you back two or even three times more. Meanwhile, Portugal still offers wines with real character at prices that make a lot of sense. Especially these days.
Part of what makes Portugal so interesting is the country itself. It’s relatively small; however, it packs in terroir with a remarkable range of climates and landscapes. In the north, you have cool, green, Atlantic-influenced valleys. Move inland, and it’s rugged mountains, steep river terraces, and old vineyards rooted in poor, rocky soils. Head south and the landscape changes into the warmer, drier plains of the Alentejo. This variety of terroir results in a huge range of wine styles, from brisk, low-alcohol whites to hearty reds that pair well with grilled meats and braises.
Portugal is home to some seriously old vineyards, including a number of areas with ungrafted vines. Old vines produce smaller yields with more nuance and concentration. You don’t have to be a wine expert to notice it. Well-made Portuguese wines always seem like they have a lot more going on than the modest price suggests.
Here’s where it gets really interesting. Portugal’s real secret weapon is its grapes.
While the wine kept busy over the last few decades planting familiar names like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay, Portugal focused on its own native varieties. That means Portugal has a deep bench of grapes many casual wine lovers have never heard of, and that’s part of the fun. Touriga Nacional brings structure, dark fruit, and floral lift to many Douro reds. Alvarinho, also known across the border in Spain as Albariño, gives some of Portugal’s most energetic whites. Baga from Bairrada can be firm, savory, and age-worthy. Aragonez, also known as Tinta Roriz and related to Spain’s Tempranillo, is versatile, food-friendly, and widely planted. And that’s just the beginning of the list.
It may sound like a lot of names you need to remember. Actually, you really don’t need to remember anything. The big picture is pretty simple: Portugal tastes like Portugal. These aren’t knockoff versions of Burgundy, Bordeaux, or Tuscany. They’re their own thing, and they’re unique. That’s becoming increasingly rare in a global wine market where too many bottles seem designed to taste familiar.
Next week, we’ll continue with a look at the different wine-producing regions in Portugal. In the meantime, try out some of this week’s featured wines. I think you’ll agree, there’s a ton of tasty quality at supermarket prices.